In
the Spring, especially in the North, it seems like all the lawns in
the neighborhood look great for a while in terms of color, even if
they have weren't fertilized in the fall or this spring. This happens
because even the weakest grass stores enough food in the fall to give
it a burst of growth in the spring. But in a few weeks, the lawns
that have poor soil or insufficient fertilizer will start to fade in
color and revert back to their normal weaker and less colorful state.
We know from experience that lawns grown in rich, bio-active
soils need less fertilizer to look good. And the opposite is true as
well - lawns
grown in poor clays or sandy soils need a lot more fertilizer to look
good.
So the lesson here is that you need to improve your soil, and you
need more fertilizer until the soil is improved.
Our best recommendations for soil improvement are:
Aerify PLUS applications for compacted or clay soils.
Increasing Organic Matter for all soil types.
You Ineed organic matter because that is what gets turned into valuable humus in the soil. Without humus you have sandy or clay “dirt” - not real soil. Clippings, deep and full roots (that die back seasonally), organic fertilizers, compost and other natural soil amendments are all good ways to increase organic matter. Our Nature's Magic applied heavily will also increase organic matter and is instantly available.
PREMATURE
CULTIVATION
At
this time of the year we always caution gardeners to be very careful
before they dig into a wet clay soil. If done too soon, before the
soil is dry enough, the clay turns rock hard and crusty on top. You
can read about "premature
cultivation"
in an article called “ Working With Wet Clay Soils in the Garden”
our Special Lawn and Garden Topics section on this site.
Mid
Spring Tips
The
majority of root growth occurs in the mid spring. This is important
because deep and full roots mean a healthier lawn, one that can seek
out nutrients and moisture far into the soil even in the summer
months. The way you care for your lawn now can either help
the lawn get deep-rooted or it can prevent
the lawn from getting deep-rooted.
MOW HIGH if your grass type can handle it. Some types are low growing and mowing high will cause them to mat up. For most grasses, higher mowing promotes deeper rooting . Get it high, before summer begins, not after it is already hot and dry. A higher mowed lawn shades itself and the soil below it. Aside from needing less water, it will also have a cooling affect on your yard.
DON'T MOW TOO MUCH OFF AT ONCE. Instead of mowing the lawn, get the idea that you should be trimming the lawn. Never cut more than 1/3 of the leaf blade at once or you will shock the grass. This usually occurs when you wait too long before mowing. If you mow high and often, the clippings should be short and you can (and should) leave them on the lawn. A mulching blade would be best.
WHEN THE LAWN BEGINS TO DRY OUT, water deeply or don't water and let the grass go dormant. It is your choice. Most grass types will recover fine from dormancy when the rains come again, if the grass is healthy and deep rooted. But if the grass needs help or you want the grass to stay green longer into the summer, be prepared to water Light watering doesn't penetrate deeply into the root zone, especially when you have clay soil or thatch. You should water for 2-3 hours at a time, giving the grass an inch of water once a week. When the grass senses lack of water in the soil, it will shut down the top growth in order to conserve moisture. Visible signs of your grass being too dry are a bluish tint to the grass and thinner looking leaf blades. Also, when you walk across a dry lawn you will see footprints.
TREAT THATCH. A thick layer of thatch will prevent water and root penetration into the soil. Lawns with thatch dry out quickly and need more watering. Thatch will provide a home fore fungus and insects and from our experience, it is simply a disaster waiting to happen. A real Thatch layer can't be removed by hand or machine without ripping out the lawn. Our Biological Dethatcher applications will supply thatch-eating microbes to your soil, and these will decompose the Thatch and turn it into valuable humus. Good soil aeration is vital if you want thatch to decompose. If you want to know more about Thatch, you can read about it in our Special Lawn and Garden Topics section on this site.
Written by Stuart Franklin, president of Nature's Lawn and Garden, Inc. www.natureslawn.com
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